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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.